Shop 22, St Kevin's Arcade
Monday - Friday
8am - 4pm
9am - 2pm
The Street Food Collective has been awesome for introducing us to so many talented people and delicious things. The duo behind Fort Greene are a good example, in the space of less than eight months, they’ve moved from markets to their very own cafe in St Kevin’s Arcade.
Chef Liam Fox left The Blue Breeze Inn to start Fort Greene with his partner Andrea Mulhausen in early 2015. They were aiming to create the best sandwiches in town, and they went about it from the bottom up, by baking their own beautiful bread in the early hours of each morning. The effort of such an undertaking should give you some idea of the level of detail that goes into the simple-seeming menu at this cafe.
Liam says, of all their sandwiches, that The Fish One is the firm favourite, the one they can’t ever remove because there would be an uproar. The reason why it’s so good is simple (albeit time-consuming), it’s homemade bread filled with house-smoked Kahawai fish fingers, handmade of course, with mushy peas, tartare and snow pea shoots. That’s a lot of love and effort for one sandwich. It is glorious.
There is also a vege one (with haloumi) and a lamb one (a kibbeh pattie), but Fort Greene have made it clear that in their new space they aren’t only about sandwiches. You can get pancakes here, and beans, once I ordered the most delightful spring salad of asparagus, tomato and feta with a fried egg on top. Everything comes with that glorious bread of course, which, let’s face it, is always going to be the best part. Customers love Fort Greene bread so much that they’ve had to start selling it on its own.
On Wednesdays at Fort Greene it’s donut day, there is always a pile of homemade brioche donuts in irregular shapes and sizes that taste like joy itself. These donuts go particularly well with a long black, using People’s Coffee beans. This cafe and coffee company are an idealogical match made in heaven, both like to do things properly, from scratch, regardless of how long it takes. Both care deeply about how they fit into the wider world, which means they’re fairtrade, local, socially conscious.
If I were Liam and Andrea, I’d be tired. Early starts, long hours, so much effort, and yet every time I walk in the door they greet me with a cheery hello, and seem so relaxed and happy to be there. That kind of attitude paired with that wonderful bread is already resulting in a growing group of regulars, of which I must admit I am one.