21 Graham St
(09) 307 7172
Monday - Friday
7am - 4pm
8am - 4pm
Major Sprout is owner David Lee’s third cafe, and with each new opening he strives to perfect and refine his vision. Consequently, Major Sprout is his most sophisticated and subtle cafe yet. The fit out of this luminous space is stunning, with polished concrete floors and furniture the colour of honey. There are beautiful and warm details, like the 60s-style wood paneling at the far end of the room, the hexagonal counter tiles, the marble-topped tables and statement light fittings. The clean luxuriousness of Major Sprout is relaxing and indulgent in equal measure.
This is a cafe with the feel of a daytime restaurant, the service, led by manager Jessie Choi, is polished but casual. Each dish is a beautiful sight, plated like a work of art by head chef Phil Czerwonatis. The menu is replete with super food and fancy touches like 62 degree hens eggs and gluten free Freedom Loaf from the Midnight Baker. The naughtiest option is the Crunchy Gentleman, a take on a Croque Monsieur, which is essentially a cheese toastie filled with ham and provolone and three cheese bechamel sauce, delicious. The quinoa and brown rice fritters are wonderfully crispy and served with smoked salmon and a slow hens egg, with black creme fraiche painted onto the plate in broad strokes. The Bibimbap is the freshest, healthiest version of this beloved Korean dish I’ve ever come across, with qunoa rice and tofu crumble with chilli jam. With a menu as varied and considered as this, I definitely recommend sitting down for a proper meal.
Major Sprout doesn’t forget that it is a cafe though, so there are still cabinet options for those without the time to linger, including sweets from the Raw Kitchen. Naturally, the coffee is important here, and Barista Sam McTavish does a masterful job behind his poison-green La Marzocco. The beans are Flight, based in Wellington. Brews come in beautiful one-off Wundaire ceramics.
It’s a sanctuary in a new part of the city, but, more than that, Major Sprout feels like a love letter to contemporary cafe culture, with all its bells and whistles.