It’s a beautiful space that’s a little hard to find: down an alley, up a flight of stairs – the last place you’d expect a huge rooftop bar to be, and so the expansiveness of The Glass Goose is a surprise. The company behind it also owns Fort St Union, but this bar feels so very far from the cheap beers and Saturday crush at the other end of the city. The Glass Goose is like a seventies loft apartment, with a sunken bar, leather furniture the colour of cognac, and an abundance of greenery in giant, artfully-aged urns. It’s a lovely place to sit, perched above the bustle of Victoria St with a pretty cocktail in hand.
The beautiful curved bar at The Glass Goose specialises in contemporary twists on familiar combinations. The ‘Victoria St Sour’ comes with a shiraz float, the bloody mary is re-named a ‘Ground Keeper’s Breakfast’, and is served with horseradish and a garnish of streaky bacon, celery and basil. The wine list is not expansive, but features a familiar, solid selection of local winemakers. At breakfast and during the day, The Glass Goose serves Kokako organic coffee on lovely wooden trays. There is also a colourful range of healthful smoothies made with seasonal fruit.
For breakfast, there are best ugly bagels with various toppings alongside traditional offerings like ricotta pancakes, fancy avocado on toast and mushrooms with poached eggs. In the afternoon and evening, The Glass Goose menu turns toward sharing, with small bites, and medium and large sharing plates, all designed to be enjoyed in groups. There are also oysters shucked to order and meat and cheese boards.
Given that The Glass Goose is first and foremost, a bar, it’s not a huge shock that the crispy potato skins are the most popular thing on the menu. The real charm of The Glass Goose is the stylish fit out and the central location, complemented by a solid wine list and a menu filled with warming, comfort food. It’s a nice bar in a handy spot, with plenty of space for large groups , which is a convenience that’s generally lacking at other Federal St eateries.